Thursday, April 1, 2010

A Guide To Cleaning Your Car Properly "UNDER CONSTRUCTION"

BY EXPRESS MOBILE DETAILING CONTACT CLINTON AT (562) 206.3541 OR OUR SISTER COMPANY AT (562) 712.7459

The simplest way to clean your car is to visit the car wash, pay for your ticket, wash and then drive away. Of course, if this were also the best way, then this would be a very short guide indeed. Washing your car at an automated car wash should only be done as an absolute last resort, as it is a one-stop shop for damaging the delicate paint on your car.

Imagine that your cars paintwork is the skin on your face. Then imagine what your face would look like if, every time you washed it, you used the cheapest soap, applied it with a bottle cleaning brush from the kitchen, rinsed with cold water and dried it using your hair dryer. Chances are it would rarely look its best!

To keep your car looking its best, the most preferable way to clean it is by hand. Far from being boring or hard work, washing your car this way can actually be very therapeutic, the repeated motions almost acting as a meditation and when done properly, the results can be very satisfying. There are a few supplies the dedicated car washer needs before commencing though.

WASHING

At no time should you use a bucket or wash mitt to wash your car invest in a pack of micro fiber towels they hold more water when drying, and are streak less always rinse your micro fiber towels constantly to avoid swirl marks. Evan if you have a rock guard in the bottom of your bucket you will still damage the clear coat finish on your car which is responsible for the over all shine and sheen on your paint finish.

The wash mitt and bucket are a haven for cross contamination of fine partials being dipped back and forth from the soap and sometimes even a second bucket of clear water which becomes contaminated after a second dip of so called rinsing, which of course helps spread the finer partials of the mitt into the water back into the mitt.

A car mitt collects grains of dirt or specs of grit that, when rubbed across your cars body work, that will cause minute scratches and "swirl marks" that ruin the look of your paint work.

Lets expand a little more on this topic! when you live in a state that does not have much rain fall, for example California, if your car is garage kept you have a collection of dust on your car.

But if you park your car outside and the street sweeper drives by your house and the Santa Ana winds are blowing you know have dirt or specs of grit on your car called "SILT" or the slang term is called "SUGAR SAND" which is a fine like powder with the consistency of baking flour but with way more grit and sand to tarnish any paints surface "CLEAR COAT."

PROPER CAR CARE WASHING! CONTACT CLINTON AT (562) 206.3514 OR OUR SISTER COMPANY AT (562) 712.7459

With out wetting the entire car or minimum water on the car (also to prevent type 2 water damage staining) start on the bottom not the top and wet both tires and rims on one side at a time only with completely washing and rinsing one side before moving to the other side. You start on the bottom first to avoid getting break dust and grime from the tires and rims on your clear coat finish washing the paint surface last.

Using a wheel brush with hard plastic bristles you might want to grab the bristles to ensure that they are soft to prevent damage to those chrome 22" black powder coated rims you don't want to pay to re-dip them. Most of the time your local car wash will use acid to clean your rims this will cause pitting and paint burning also if the wind is blowing the acid will pit and burn the fender and car door and lead you to believe that you received a faulty paint job from the factory.

It is so important to keep those rims clean and polished 3 times a week! and the only time you should use dish washing liquid is on your tires and rims "ONLY" it will break up any old tire gel on the tires and break dust on the rims. NOTE make sure the wheel brush bristles are soft to protect your investment.

Rinse the car using a hose with a plastic nozzle this will ensure that if you drag the nozzle on the ground you will not cut your hand on sharp edges and a accidental nick or scratch on your paints finish. If using a hose, the stream should be like rain on the car, rather than a strong jet of water, as this can blast dirt into the paints finish.









Then you need a decent car wash product such as Turtle Wax Zip Car Wash. Under no circumstances should you use dish washing liquid as this contains ingredients that attack the shiny topcoat (clear coat) of your paint and will, over time, make it dull.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Below Picture of Type 2 Water Spot Damage GMC Yukon Denali 2007 Color Sanding By Express Mobile Detailing Contact Clinton at (562) 206.3541



Click to Enlarge photo of Type 2 Water Damage Out Lined in Blue Box 3 Year Old Damage


Swirls, scratches and water spots are the three most common paint defects car owners struggle with daily. There are two basic kinds of water spot damage or water marks found on automotive paints.
* Type I Water Spots - Above Surface Mineral Deposits
* Type II Water Spots - Below Surface Water Spot Etchings, Calcium, Lime and Iron.












Click to enlarge Photos